Trip Report: Installment #4

My 4th installment will include May 28, 2007 and May 29, 2007. Here is an overview of what is covered:

May 28---St. George, UT to Grand Canyon North Rim. Stopped at Pipe Spring NM. Drove to Cape Royal and Point Imperial. Hiked a few short trails. Spent night in Mt. Carmel Junction, UT.

May 29---Mt. Carmel Junction, UT to Bryce Canyon National Park. Drove scenic road. Hiked Navajo-Queens Garden Loop. Hiked Willis Creek slot canyon in Grand Staircase/Escalante NM. Hiked to Shakespeare Arch in Kodachrome Basin SP. Spent night in Springdale, UT.

There will only be one more installment of my trip report. It will cover the last two days of my trip, both of which were primarily aimed toward hiking in Zion National Park.

Trip report to follow...

Sean

Trip Report: Installment #4

Day 8—Monday, May 28, 2007—North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park

After the fairly long drive the previous day, we were up and leaving the Hampton Inn at 8:10 a.m. MST. From Saint George we took UT 59 from Hurricane southeast to the Utah/Arizona border. Once in Arizona, we were on AZ 389. This drive is very scenic with the beautiful sights of the Vermillion Cliffs to the north. We decided to take a short stop at Pipe Spring National Monument along the way.

Pipe Spring is characterized by Native American and Mormon pioneer history. “For 12,000 years the Arizona Strip was a travel corridor for nomadic big games hunters, hunter-gatherers, and traders, the first people to be sustained by these springs. Ancestral Puebloan peoples were the next to settle in the area, followed by related Southern Paiute tribes.” The Native American tribes such as the Paiute continued to lived in this area until the early twentieth century. In 1907 the Kaibab Paiute Indian Reservation was established. The area was first settled in the 1860s by Mormon pioneers who brought their cattle. By 1872 Winsor Castle was constructed above a spring that was in the area, and a cattle ranching operation was begun.

In 1923, Pipe Spring was preserved as a national monument. A half mile trail takes visitors throughout the area which includes two corrals, a garden, two ponds, the West and East Cabins, an orchard, a chicken coup, and Winsor Castle. The ponds were dug in the 1870s to hold water from Pipe Spring, and they were used to water livestock and irrigate the garden. Water from the ponds still are used in the garden. There is also a ½ mile Ridge Trail that gives visitors great views of Mount Trumbull, the Arizona Strip, the Kaibab Plateau, Kanab Canyon, and the Vermillion Cliffs. We took the short trail around the site itself and saw countless rabbits along the way. They were literally everywhere we looked. We also saw several lizards of exceptional sizes. We did not take the time to tour Winsor Castle with a ranger, but just walking through the site was neat.

After spending nearly an hour at Pipe Spring National Monument, we were on our way to the North Rim. Once we arrived in Fredonia, we took Highway 89-A southeast to Jacob Lake. From there we traveled south up the Kaibab Plateau to the Grand Canyon’s North Rim. The Kaibab Plateau is much different than its surroundings. The area is heavily forested in aspen, ponderosa pine, spruce-fir, and pinon-juniper in contrast to the desert landscape found in the neighboring areas. During the winter over 200 inches of snow can fall on the plateau. Often the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park is not open until May. We had been to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim on two occasions in the past, but the North Rim was an entirely new experience. The beautiful forest that characterizes the Kaibab Plateau was definitely not the case on the South Rim.

After entering the parks North Entrance we decided we would first drive to the visitor center and lodge. We were amazed at how much less crowded the North Rim was than the South Rim. After parking at the lodge, we walked the short ½ mile paved trail along the rim to Bright Angel Point. The trail to Bright Angel Point ends at one of the most incredible views on either rim of the Grand Canyon. Along the way there are sheer dropoffs on either side of the trail, but it is generally very wide. In a few spots where it gets a bit narrower, there are railings for protection. Several visitors die each year at the Grand Canyon from crossing railings or simply getting too close to the edge. While we were there, there was a man climbing up a rock out of the canyon several yards from one of the railings. His wife or girlfriend was ridiculing him for his unintelligent feat.

The Grand Canyon is one of the Earth’s greatest natural wonders. The Grand Canyon was one of the United States’ last charted territories, and little was known about it until after the American Civil War. In 1869 John Wesley Powell made the first recorded journey through the Grand Canyon on the Colorado River. He began the trip with four small, wooden boats and nine men, but only six finished the journey. However, the Anasazi Indians and other tribes had called the Grand Canyon home for hundred of years even prior to the arrival of the first Europeans to the American Southwest. In 1540 Spanish explorer and conquistador Coronado and his men arrived on the canyon’s South Rim. After Coronado’s brief visit to the canyon whose rocks were “bigger than the great tower of Seville,” it was two hundred years before another European set eyes on the Grand Canyon.

Yet, the most impressive notion about the Grand Canyon is the mind-blowing eons that have past in shaping the canyon walls. Nowhere else on the planet can such a massive span of time be witnessed in one sweeping view. The Colorado River basin is an estimated 40 million years old, and the Grand Canyon itself has been found to be some five to six million years old. The youngest rock found in the canyon is the Kaibab Limestone on the North Rim at 230 million years old. The oldest rock is the Vishnu Schist found deep in the canyon at 2 billion years old. About 65 million years ago the Colorado Plateau began experiencing an uplift that would rise 5,000 to 10,000 feet high. The uplift cause the Colorado River to run more steeply through the canyon. This led to the river running more rapidly, and thus cutting deeper into the canyon.

The view of Bright Angel Canyon and down toward Roaring Springs is incredible from Bright Angel Point. Compared to the South Rim’s views, views from the North Rim seem to be closer to the formations themselves. At the South Rim, you can see very far and wide, but all of the huge bluffs are clear across the canyon. At the North Rim, the bluffs are much closer, so you get a different feel for the canyon. Having said that, none of us were as impressed with the Grand Canyon from Bright Angel Point as we were from the South Rim. This opinion would change as the day went on.

After taking the nice trail to Bright Angel Point and back, we went inside the Grand Canyon Lodge. The Grand Canyon Lodge was constructed in 1927-1928 and was made up of the main lodge, 100 standard cabins, and 20 deluxe cabins. The lodge was destroyed by a fire but soon rebuilt by Gilbert Underwood. It is very rustic and made of limestone and timber, both of which complement the North Rim’s nature beauty. Today the lodge is registered as a National Historic Landmark. The dining room is very spacious and provides excellent views of the canyon. The viewing room contains leather couches where visitors can relax and take in the view. Two other dining options at the lodge include the Deli in the Pines and the Rough Rider Saloon.

After we toured through the beautiful lodge, we walked back to our car and headed off to the North Kaibab Trailhead. The North Kaibab Trail is the only trail that descends into the canyon from the North Rim. Inside the canyon at the Colorado River, the North Kaibab Trail meets the South Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails that descend from the South Rim. All three meet at Phantom Ranch, destination of thousands of Rim-to-River or Rim-to-Rim hikers each year. From the North Kaibab Trailhead to the Colorado River, the trail drops an incredible 5,800 feet in 14 miles. A Rim-to-Rim hike is likely a goal of any serious hiker, for conquering the Grand Canyon on foot is truly a life-altering experience. Many Rim-to-Rim hikers choose to begin at the North Rim and hike to the South Rim because the North Rim is at a much higher elevation than the South Rim. Thus, they take the less strenuous hike out of the canyon and descend the more difficult. Just less than five miles into the hike, hikers arrive at Roaring Springs. Just two miles further they reach Cottonwood Camp, a popular destination for the night for those who would rather take two days to climb or descend between the North Rim and Phantom Ranch.

With only one day devoted to the Grand Canyon’s North Rim, we had no plans to attempt Rim-to-River hike or even a hike to Roaring Springs and back for that matter. We opted for a much easier route, a short hike to Coconino Overlook and back. The first part of the hike was characterized by few views through beautiful aspen, fir, and pine forest. Coconino Overlook is only ¾ miles from the North Kaibab Trailhead and drops in elevation 500 feet. Although this is fairly steep, it did seem to be a rather gradual descent and ascent, and really was not at all difficult. It took us 20 minutes to hike down to Coconino Overlook. We then spent about 20 minutes taking in the view.

The overlook is situated on top of a large slab of Coconino Sandstone and has great views into Roaring Springs Canyon. The canyon is beautifully painted red, and the lush green of the forest accents the canyon walls. It is definitely a much different scene than from the South Rim. We could spot several hikers below in the canyon near Supai Tunnel, a popular half-day hike from the North Rim. Most people who want to take a day hike on the North Kaibab Trail will take the ten mile roundtrip hike to Roaring Springs and back. The NPS strongly recommends not to continue past the springs for a day hike. There were several lizards along the sandstone at the overlook. We took some time marveling at the canyon and eating some snacks, and then we made our ascent.

Just a couple minutes after departing Coconino Overlook I spotted a deer off the trail. We watched the deer as it made its way down through the forest into the canyon. In total, there were five deer we saw in the same area, and to my knowledge we were the only hikers to see them. Despite spending five minutes watching the deer, we still managed to climb back to trailhead in 20 minutes, the same amount of time it took for us to descend. It was fairly hot hiking the trail, but it was nice to know that we were not further in the canyon where the temperature can be over 30 degrees warming than at the canyon’s rim.

Once back in our car, we again drove back to the Grand Canyon Lodge. We debated for awhile whether we should eat at the Deli in the Pines or at the lodge’s dining room. I had heard the deli was a good dining option, but we chose to eat at the dining room instead. We found out that our waitress was from an area of Virginia we knew very well and was working in the park for the summer. In fact, it looked like most of the waiters and waitresses were college students in the park for a summer job. The meal was nothing spectacular, but it was a nice change from the average trail food we had been used to eating.

After having lunch at the Grand Canyon Lodge, we decided to drive 23 miles to Cape Royal, one of the two scenic paved drives at the North Rim. The Cape Royal Scenic Drive follows the eastern edge of the Walhalla Plateau, visible from Bright Angel Point. The drive is very scenic as it goes through the forest and past Greenland Lake. The road is a bit windy at times, but it is not at all an exposed drive. We decided to pass all the overlooks and head straight for Cape Royal. Once there, we took the short trail to Angels Window and to Cape Royal itself.

The trail to both Angels Window and Cape Royal is paved and only 0.8 miles roundtrip. Nearly from the start you can see Angels Window from the trail. Angels Window is a huge arch through which you can view the canyon and the Colorado River. The trail actually leads to the top of the arch, and there are railings along the entire top. However, you still need to take care up here because there have been reported deaths from people who have fallen of Angels Window. The view in all directions from the top of Angels Window was stunning. Over 5,000 feet below we could see the blue water of the Colorado River churning beneath bright red cliffs.

We then walked the short distance out to Cape Royal. The view from Cape Royal is just as good as any view on the South Rim in my opinion. The view into the inner canyon and the many buttes and temples within it is amazing. You can see far off to the east toward the Painted Desert, southeast to Freya Castle, south to Vishnu Temple and the beautiful San Francisco Peaks that are over 50 miles away near Flagstaff, and southwest to Wotans Throne. Meanwhile, looking straight across the canyon we could spot the Desert View Watchtower as well as cars on the South Rim. The view to the west was very beautiful, but the sunlight made it very difficult to get any acceptable photos.

After spending about 30 minutes walking around the trails from Cape Royal we decided to head back along the Cape Royal Scenic Drive. We bypassed the trail to Cape Final because we didn’t feel we had enough time. Cape Final gives great views of the canyon and surrounding area to the east. We did, however, stop at Point Roosevelt and took a ¼ mile roundtrip trail for some nice views. This point was named after President Theodore Roosevelt who declared Grand Canyon a national park in 1919. There were some great views to be found into the eastern canyon and the confluence of the Little Colorado River. After taking that short break we continued up to a nice overlook at Vista Encantada, meaning Enchanted View in Spanish. This overlook provided great views to the beautiful Painted Desert to the east. It was amazing to see how much higher the Kaibab Plateau really is above the surrounding area. There were also great views of Brady Peak, Mount Hayden, and Point Imperial from Vista Encantada. When we walked back to the car we saw a cow eating at a picnic table—open range indeed!

After visiting what we wanted to on Cape Royal Scenic Drive, we took the Point Imperial Scenic Drive 3 miles to Point Imperial. I absolutely loved the view from Point Imperial. The view may not be as comprehensive as Cape Royal or the overlooks on the South Rim, but the color and buttes here were extremely impressive. Point Imperial lies at an elevation of 8,803 feet and provides an awesome view to the Painted Desert to the east. Point Imperial is actually the highest point anywhere in the Grand Canyon and lies an amazing 6,600 feet above the Colorado River. The showpiece of Point Imperial is Mount Hayden. Looking to the northeast from Point Imperial, you can actually see into Marble Canyon back to the Lee’s Ferry area. We were at Point Imperial in the late afternoon, probably around 6:30 p.m. PST and the sun casting shadows on the canyon was beautiful. Point Imperial does make a wonderful place viewing the sun hitting the eastern desert and canyon at sunset, but it is most popular at sunrise. The white cap of Mount Hayden contrasted with the red rock at its base and the lush greenery on its slopes make it one of the most awe-inspiring views on either rim. In my opinion. Cape Royal and Point Imperial alone are more impressive than the overlooks on the South Rim.

After spending some time marveling at the incredible view at Point Imperial, we had to exit the park. We drove back through the beautiful forests and meadows of the Kaibab Plateau and on to Jacob Lake. The sun was setting as we on 89A from Jacob Lake to Fredonia. By the time we arrived in Fredonia it was twilight, and we decided that since there are very few options for dining in Mount Carmel Junction, we would stop for dinner at Kanab, Utah. We crossed the border back into Utah and also back into Mountain Standard Time. I had found some restaurants in Kanab that sounded nice in researching for the trip, but we decided to pick a restaurant that was right off of the highway. We saw Nedra’s Mexican Restaurant and thought we would give it a try. This restaurant probably had the least southwestern feel to it of any Mexican restaurant I have been to. Not only that, but there was a fair deal of paper trash underneath most of the tables. To top it off, we were seated and it took 15 minutes for our waitress to come. She said that she thought another waitress was supposed to take care of us. We were rather frustrated, but we accepted her mistake. The salsa was not bad at all, and it took an average amount of time for the food to be prepared. The food was by no means extraordinary, but it is hard to go wrong with Mexican food either. Overall the dining experience was fair, and I doubt that I would ever eat at Nedra’s again if I was in Kanab.

By the time we left Nedra’s it was completely dark, and we still had a short drive to get to our destination for the night at Mount Carmel Junction. We arrived at the Best Western East Zion Thunderbird Lodge after 10:00 p.m. Apparently there was an argument between the manager and an employee who wanted to leave work early with her boyfriend. The sheriff was on the scene so everything was under control, but it wasn’t the most welcoming of experiences. We had reserved two rooms for the night, one room with a king and one room with two queens. The bedrooms were very nice and spacious. The multiple reinforcements on the sliding glass doors made us wonder how safe the area was. From what we could defer, Mount Carmel Junction is little more than a rest area for the night for travelers, and from what we later gathered, it truly is little more than a junction. We got to bed at a decent hour after an extremely long day that included some awesome views of one of the world’s most spectacular natural wonders. Tomorrow would hold just as much excitement.

Day 9—Tuesday, May 29, 2007—Bryce Canyon National Park and Grand Staircase/Escalante

We checked out of our room early in the morning and then drove over to the Thunderbird Restaurant. The East Zion Thunderbird has a virtual monopoly in Mount Carmel Junction, but we were actually surprised that more people were not eating breakfast at the time, but maybe it was a little early for some. The prices for breakfast were fairly reasonable, and everyone enjoyed what they ordered. I had a sweet role, and it was awesome. I thought that would be a good way to get some carbs in me before hiking during the day. By the time we had finished breakfast and were on our way it was 8:35 a.m. MST.

We then drove to Bryce Canyon National Park, approximately 60 miles away from Mt. Carmel Junction. After entering the park, we immediately drove the scenic drive to Ponderosa Canyon and then backtracked from there. The view from Ponderosa Point was nice, but it is mainly used by hikers to join the Under-the-Rim Trail. The next stop along the way was Agua Canyon. The colorful rocks from Agua Canyon Overlook were very beautiful, and we could see the plateaus and canyons off to the east. In fact, we were peering into Grand Staircase/Escalante National Monument and the area that Scenic Byway 12 traverses along the way.

Our next stop on the scenic drive was Natural Bridge. This bridge is one of the most photographed features of Bryce Canyon National Park aside from the amphitheater. It is actually not a bridge but an arch, formed by rain and frost eroding the rock away. There are actually six other arches located in Bryce Canyon, but this is the largest. The deep red of the arch’s rock complements the lush green of the surrounding ponderosa pine. The arch was formed by the processes of frost wedging, dissolution, and gravity. Frost wedging occurs when water gets into cracks in the rock, freezes and expands, and then weakens the rock. Dissolution occurs when chemicals in rainwater eats away at the sides and top of the rock. Finally, gravity pulled the weakened center of the rock and left behind the hole visitors see today.

Our last stop before arriving at Bryce Amphitheater was at Farview Point. From here you can see far to the Grand Staircase to the east. From north to south views include the Pink, Grey, and White Cliffs and even part of the Kaibab Plateau near the Grand Canyon is visible. The air quality here is among the best in the entire United States. On some days it is possible to see over 150 miles away. Not only is the air quality great, but the sky is absolutely gorgeous. Unlike the hazy blue-grey sky characteristic of much of the eastern United States, southern Utah’s skies are usually an unbelievably deep blue which is even more dramatic when contrasted with the brilliant oranges of Bryce Canyon.

We then drove back to the main amphitheater and first drove to Paria View. Paria View is one of few places in Bryce Canyon that photographers love because its cliffs and hoodoos actually face the setting sun. Looking down the canyon, you can see the watershed of the Paria River, a river characterized by beautiful slot canyons. Some visitors also come to Paria View to watch for peregrine falcons who are occasionally seen from the overlook. After taking the short trail at Paria View we drove just a couple miles over to Bryce Point, one of the best views in the park of the awesome Bryce Amphitheater.

Bryce Amphitheater was created over millions of years of sedimentation, uplift, and erosion. The formations in Bryce are part of the Grand Staircase that extends through a huge portion of the immediate region. The oldest of the rocks can be found at the Grand Canyon while those found in Zion National Park are younger. Bryce contains the youngest rock units in the Grand Staircase. After the uplift that created the Grand Staircase slowed down, erosion began to eat away at the sediments deposited at Bryce. Eventually after thousands of years, the softer rock eroded away leaving the harder rocks behind as fins. As water in cracks of the rock freezes, parts of the fins break away leaving behind hoodoos. Bryce Amphitheater is an incredible display of thousands of fins and hoodoos of amazing color and drama.

After stopping for pictures at Bryce Point, we briefly got out at Inspiration Point before heading to Sunset Point. We decided that we would take a hike into Bryce Amphitheater that begins at Sunset Point. Although we had been to Bryce Canyon National Park twice in the past, the only hike we ever did was the Navajo Loop Trail. However, in May 2006 a massive rockslide closed the Navajo Trail. The following is an excerpt taken from a NPS news release:

“On Tuesday, May 23, 2006 at 5:00pm on the Wall Street section of the Navajo Loop Trail there was a significant rock fall. While there were people on the trail at this time, no one was injured. The rock debris covers an area roughly 60 feet long, 15 feet deep and 15 feet wide. There is approximately 400-500 tons of rock in this area. The rocks range in size, the largest being the dimensions of a midsized car. The trail will remain closed at this site to ensure visitor safety as we develop a plan to reopen the trail, complete environmental compliance, and obtain funding. It is projected that work to clear the rock fall debris will start in the spring of 2007. If deemed safe the park plans to open both sides of the trail up to the rock fall, so visitors will be able to view the rock fall and the large spruce tree in Wall Street.”

Near the trailhead for the Navajo Trail, there was a barrier on the trail to the right (west) warning people that the trail was closed for maintenance. From the barrier we could look down into Wall Street, a beautiful narrow section of the canyon where Douglas firs and a spruce tree grow in an incredible display. Since the western half of the Navajo Loop Trail was closed, we had to take the eastern half of the trail. This portion of the trail travels beside two of the most well-known formations in Bryce: Thor’s Hammer and the Sentinel. Soon the trail begins to descend steeply along numerous switchbacks down to the canyon floor. There are several firs in this section, and the early morning sunlight painted the walls a bright orange. Coupled with the incredibly deep blue sky above, the scene was gorgeous. Once down in the canyon, a sign pointed to Two Bridges. These are two short bridges located within feet of each other between two canyon walls only six feet apart.

Not far past Two Bridges was the trail junction with the Peekaboo and Queens Garden Trails. To the right was another barricade warning hikers about the rock slide ahead. However, this barricade simply read that the trail was a dead end ¼ mile ahead. We wanted to see what the rockslide looked like and were not on an extremely tight schedule, so we decided to go ahead and make the ½ mile roundtrip trek to the rockslide site and back. Once at the rockslide area, there was another barricade and tape warning hikers not to enter the slide area. It noted that there were radar devices behind the barriers that would notify park personnel if someone entered the restricted area. The fine for doing so was very steep as well. The rockslide was absolutely huge, and one of the rocks was definitely the size of a small sized car. At that time of the day, the sun made the canyon and slide area glow an incredible orange. Meanwhile, the sky was still a brilliant blue. After taking some shots of the rockslide, we went back the way we came.

As we made our way back to the trail junction we could look ahead to the west and see the faint appearance of white smoke above Inspiration Point. This smoke would become very thick throughout the region later in the day. The fire, known as the King Creek Fire, was ignited on May 17 by lightning. Fire managers decided to manage the fire as a Wildland Fire Use (WFU) fire. This meant that firefighters would manage the fire within a certain boundary to achieve management objectives. Many local communities began to worry if the situation had gotten out of control when large levels of smoke spread throughout the area to the east.

Once back at the trail junction we chose to take the Queens Garden Trail. The first part of the trail was very flat as we were now on the canyon floor. During this part of the hike the views were not incredible, but the vegetation made for a nice scene. After about a mile of walking on the canyon floor we arrived at Queens Garden. Queens Garden is a spectacular scene of white and orange hoodoos as well as trees. The hoodoos are very tall here, and this area is one of the most photographed in the park below the rim. From Queens Garden you can view the hoodoo referred to as Queen Victoria. If you look up from the viewpoint, there are several hoodoos with white caps. The one on the left is Queen Victoria, and the white section of the hoodoo makes up the outline of her figure. It is a remarkable resemblance of the queen in a dress and hat.

After looking at the beautiful scene around Queens Garden, we were back on the trail. The trail passes through two or three tunnels along the way that serve as nice frames to photograph. The Queens Garden Trail then began its ascent, though not nearly as steeply as the Navajo Trail. The views all the way from Queens Garden to Sunrise Point are amazing. We could soon look off to the north and see the area that the Fairyland Loop Trail travels through. Once we got to Sunrise Point, we waited for about 10 minutes to allow the rest of the group to catch up. Once we were all back, we took the Rim Trail ½ mile back to our car at Sunset Point, completing the entire Navajo-Queens Garden loop counterclockwise. In all the hike was 3.4 miles, descended then climbed 521 feet, and took us 1 ½ hours to complete.

Once we were finished with the hike, we drove to the Bryce Canyon Lodge and Bryce Canyon Visitor Center to purchase some gifts. After that, we drove over to Ruby’s Inn and had lunch at nearby Ruby Canyon Diner. The diner was more of a fast-food joint than a diner. The food was decent, the prices were reasonable, and we were generally pleased with our lunch. We were actually looking for something quick and cheap for lunch, so the Ruby Canyon Diner actually worked well for us. After eating diner, we headed over to Highway 12 toward Tropic. When we arrived in Cannonville, we stopped by the Grand Staircase/Escalante National Monument Visitor Center. We inquired about the smoke from the King Creek Fire, and although they did not have any details they figured the day’s strong winds had possibly cause the fire to get a bit out of control. However, our main purpose in stopping at the visitor center was to get directions to and information about the Willis Creek hike. We were given a printout of how to get to the trailhead and information about the hike from the helpful rangers. However, we still had difficulty finding the way to get to the trailhead due to some questionable mileage reports on the park’s handout for Willis Creek. We actually ended up driving for a few minutes on a narrow, sandy road that led us nowhere and which was difficult to turn around from. The first 3 miles of the route was paved, but once we got on Skutumpah Road toward Bull Valley Gorge, the road was unpaved and sandy.

In case anyone here is considering taking the Willis Creek slot canyon hike, here are directions that I think are probably more accurate and detailed than what the park service will give you. I posted these directions in a previous thread, so I am just copying and pasting them again. These directions are coming from the west. “As you head west on Highway 12 from the road to Bryce, you will pass through the town of Tropic. A few miles past Tropic will be the town of Cannonville. Look for a sign (I believe it is brown) on the right side of the road that directs you toward Kodachrome Basin State Park (it won%26#39;t be too hard to miss). You are now on Cottonwood Road (400) and it is paved. Travel about 3 miles south on this paved road. You will see a small sign to the right that says Sheep Creek and a few other places. Just past this sign on the right is another sign that says ';Bull Valley Gorge'; and ';Kanab.'; You will want to take this road. It is Skutumpah Road (500) and is unpaved. Be sure to only take this road if it is dry. About six miles down the road, you will see a much narrower road that goes off to the right. A mile further (so seven miles from the turnoff---you may want to set your odometer when you get onto Skutumpah Road) there will be a large parking area off to the right side of the road. There will likely be many cars there as well, and maybe even people with a tent. Park here to begin. Near some trees you will see a registration box. Write your information here. To begin the hike, you will want to walk across the road. You will see a small creek (possibly dry when you are there) right beside the parking area. You will want to walk downstream (you will see some interesting canyon formations shortly) for the hike.” The park service said that it was 6 miles exactly from the turn onto Skutumpah Road to the parking area, so when it hit 6 we were at the road that we thought we needed. According to our odometer, the actual parking area is 7 miles from the turnoff, so just be aware that the information may be incorrect.

When we arrived at the parking area there was a large group of people having what appeared to be a family reunion under a tent at the parking area. We signed our names in the registration box and then began walking downstream. Shortly a shallow canyon area with slickrock appeared. A small creek was running through the canyon with a small 3-foot waterfall. We descended to the creekbed and initially there were only short mounds on either side of the trail. The creek was running slowly through the trail for the first ¾ miles or so. It didn’t take long before we entered into the first section of slot canyon. A slot canyon is a narrow canyon shaped by running water. Slot canyons are usually very deep and not very wide, formed of sandstone or limestone, and can be flash flooding hazards. There are countless slot canyons located on the Colorado Plateau, primarily in the Grand Staircase area.

The trail along Willis Creek entered four slot canyon sections along the way to the junction with Sheep Creek. Some periods the slot canyon would last for a couple minutes and then enter into an area with only moderately steep creekbeds. There is no question that the Willis Creek slot canyons are incredibly photogenic, especially in the early morning, midday, or late afternoon. This was only the second slot canyon we had ever been in—the first having been the Virgin River Narrows in Zion National Park. While not as deep as the Narrows, Willis Creek slot was still very impressive and well worthwhile. The experience of hiking through a slot canyon is difficult to put into words. It is just amazing, and Willis Creek gives people of all capabilities the ability to experience one for themselves.

Once we reached the junction with Sheep Creek, we retraced our steps back up to the trailhead. In total the hike was 4.4 miles, descended minimally, and took us 1 hour, 40 minutes to complete. After we finished we took the road back toward Cannonville and then east to Kodachrome Basin State Park. Kodachrome Basin State Park holds colorful eroded rock formations of red, pink, white, yellow, and brown. The formations here are more subtle than nearby Bryce Canyon National Park, but the green vegetation and Utah blue sky make the area very appealing to photographers. “This color and contrast prompted the National Geographic Society in 1949, with consent from Kodak Film Corp., to name the park Kodachrome.” Dozens of sandstone spires and chimneys can be found in the park.

When we entered the park we saw a car off the right side of the road, obviously in trouble. The driver had tried doing a U-turn on the road and drove off the side so that its back wheels were on the pavement and its front wheels were off the road. The group couldn’t get the car back onto the road, so my dad, brothers, and I jumped out of our car and gave them a push back onto the road. We stopped at the visitor center and in talking to the park ranger on duty found he was from Virginia, as we once were. After stopping at the visitor center to use the restrooms, we drove to the Shakespeare Arch Trailhead.

The Shakespeare Arch Trail headed ½ mile along a path of frequent short sections of uphill/downhill to Shakespeare Arch. The arch is located in an isolated sandstone outcrop. Although the arch is barely visible from the main road into Kodachrome Basin, it was not even discovered until 1976 when a ranger was looking for a coyote den. Ever since the arch has been one of the highlights of the park. The 30-foot arch is only noticeable when nearly right underneath when the blue sky reveals its opening. The Sentinel Trail continues past Shakespeare Arch and loops around the rest of the sandstone group that the arch is part of. We walked back to the trailhead, and along the way the view of the cliffs to the north was very beautiful in the late afternoon.

After taking the time for the short hike, we drove to nearby Chimney Rock. Chimney Rock is a very large sand pipe located in the far eastern extent of Kodachrome Basin State Park. The road actually circles around the rock and a sign briefly talks about the rock. From the parking lot we were also rewarded with beautiful views to the southeast of the moon rising above the sandstone cliffs. Once we checked out Chimney Rock, it was getting fairly late, and we still had a lengthy drive for the night. We drove back through Tropic and the beautiful cliffs of Red Canyon. As we drove back along Highway 89 we could see the cliffs to the east catch the sun’s final rays. By the time we arrived in Mount Carmel Junction it was dark, and we still had the drive along the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway to get to Springdale.

However, this portion of the drive was very interesting. The moon was out and shining very brightly through the canyon. It was so bright, in fact, that we could make out the outline of most of the cliffs. Driving this road during the daytime is very scenic, but it is equally intriguing under the light of a nearly full moon. We drove through the massive 1.1 mile Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel that was completed in 1930. It was dedicated on July 4, 1930 and at the time was America’s longest tunnel. The narrow, winding tunnel led to many accidents and near misses with large vehicles, so now the NPS requires advance notion from visitors with large vehicles so that they can be escorted through the tunnel.

We arrived in Springdale just before 9:00 p.m., and since most of the restaurants close at 9:00 during the summer we decided we should head straight to a restaurant. We knew we only had two nights to spend in Springdale, and we had heard that the Bit %26amp; Spur Saloon, Spotted Dog Café, and Oscar’s Café were three of the best choices for dining in Springdale. Since we spotted it easily our first night driving to Zion on Sunday and since Mexican food is generally a quick meal, we decided we would try Oscar’s Café. We were rather surprised at how expensive some of the entrees were, but the food was excellent. Our waiter never wrote down anything we ordered, and everyone still received everything correct as ordered. The only downside was that we sat on the patio, and the smell from the campground was not at all pleasant. Overall, our meal at Oscar’s was one of the best of the entire trip. After the wonderful dinner we headed over to our hotel at the Best Western RV Park for the night. It was another incredible day on the Colorado Plateau with nearly 9 miles of hiking along beautiful trails. Yet, tomorrow’s hike would be one of the most difficult physical challenges of the trip but with arguably the most inspiring scenery along any trail we had ever done.

Trip Report: Installment #4

Your reports are the best I have ever read on this site. They allow me to relive my own trip to some of the places your describe. What a wonderful gift you have shared with others.

Wow, that is a wonderful compliment gmlawyer. Thank you very much! I%26#39;m so glad my report could bring back some memories. Every time I go on vacation to the western national parks I never spend more than a few dollars on posters. I have always found that the best things you can take back from the trip are photos and memories. I%26#39;m doing these huge trip reports not only so that my family and people on the internet can read them but also as a reminder to myself of how great these trips have been. I%26#39;m glad to know you are enjoying them as well!

Hi TNsoccer07

Again, thanks for the trip updates, these must take you hours!

The trip to the North Rim sounds fab, and we are going in Sept - can%26#39;t wait. You have made it come alive.

Well Done, looking forward to the last Zion one too.

Thanks - Heather

By the way, next you must simply take the family to Moab to Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. They are beyond awesome. This year we took the family to NM and rented houses in Taos and Santa Fe for a week. Still going throught the almost 1000 pictures I took. My wife is a professional writer, so between her writeups and my pictures, we too have our memories locked up for a lifetime.

Thanks Heather! Yep, it usually takes me a little over 2 hours to complete one day if I don%26#39;t get distracted in the process, so I%26#39;ve definitely worked up a lot of hours doing these. The North Rim was definitely awesome.

Thanks for the tip gmlawyer! My parents took my siblings and I to Arches on our first trip to the western national parks back in 2000 and at that point Arches was my favorite national park. I%26#39;ve since visited other parks I like more, but I%26#39;d still go back there in a heartbeat. We did not go to Canyonlands until 2004. That year we spent a week near the isolated town of Mesa, Colorado. During that time we spent one day in Arches, one day in the Island in the Sky, and one day in the Needles. Canyonlands is fabulous as well! I think the highlight of that trip was the day in Arches when I hiked Fiery Furnace, Delicate Arch, and Devils Garden to Landscape, Wall, Navajo, Partition, and Double O Arches for a total of around 12 miles in one day---and in 90-100 degree weather too. I have to say that although I may like Rocky Mountain and Glacier National Parks better, my favorite part of the country is still the Colorado Plateau.