Trip Report: Installment #2

If you missed my first installment of my trip report, I am posting identical trip reports in six national park forums (Death Valley, Yosemite, Sequoia/Kings Canyon, Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, and Zion). This is my second installment and will include days 3-5 of my 11-day trip to 7 western national parks. This installment includes three full days in Yosemite National Park during which we hiked a total of approximately 23 miles.

Here is a brief outline of the three days included in this installment:

Day 3: 4 Mile-Panorama-Mist Trails loop hike

Day 4: Sentinel Dome, Lower Yosemite Falls, Mirror Lake

Day 5: Lembert Dome, Mariposa Grove

Also, in case you missed the first installment, here is an overview of my entire trip:

May 21: Flew from Knoxville, TN to Las Vegas, NV

May 22: Drove through Death Valley NP and Tioga Road in Yosemite NP

May 23: Yosemite NP

May 24: Yosemite NP

May 25: Yosemite NP and drove to Tulare, CA

May 26: Sequoia/Kings Canyon NPs

May 27: Drove to St. George, UT; quick trip to Zion NP

May 28: Pipe Spring NM %26amp; North Rim of Grand Canyon NP; drove to Mt. Carmel, UT

May 29: Bryce Canyon NP; Grand Staircase/Escalante NM, Kodachrome Basin SP

May 30: Zion NP

May 31: Zion NP; flew from Las Vegas, NV to Knoxville, TN

My trip report will follow.......

Sean

Trip Report: Installment #2

Day 3—Wednesday, May 23, 2007—4 Mile-Panorama-Mist Hike

We got a very early start, in fact the earliest of our entire trip, at 7:15 a.m. because today we had a very long hike planned. Since we arrived in Yosemite so late the previous evening, as I said before we didn’t have a traditional dinner. However, we also didn’t stop to purchase any food, and Yosemite West Condominiums doesn’t have any kind of meal option other than vending machines. So from our timeshare we headed straight for Yosemite Village.

However, before doing that we took a 30-minute detour at Swinging Bridge to take some wonderful early morning shots of Yosemite Falls and Cathedral Rocks reflected in the calm waters of the Merced River. The Merced River flows west out of Yosemite Valley through the foothills and eventually joins the San Joaquin River. I was really surprised at how calm the waters were at this time of the year. Usually in late May the current would be moving fairly rapidly, but at least at the Swinging Bridge it was calm enough to reflect the surroundings. We also took a short walk through part of Cook’s Meadow for some nice views of Yosemite Falls.

After we spent some time there, we realized it was time to head over to Yosemite Village so we could begin our hike. We stopped at the Village Store to purchase some snacks to eat along the trail. This included a variety of granola bars, crackers, trail mix, and other food that became our typical snack food while we hiked. The Village Store ended up being our daily stop for supplies, usually food and souvenirs, whenever we had the time. The grocery store there had almost anything one would need while staying in Yosemite, including fresh produce.

Once we finished at the Village Store we headed straight for the 4 Mile Trailhead to begin our day hike, which we began at 9:00 a.m., unfortunately much later than we had hoped to begin. The 4 Mile Trail provides hikers with the shortest access from Yosemite Valley to Glacier Point. The trail gains a knee-grinding 3,200 feet along its 4.8 miles to Glacier Point. The 4 Mile Trail was constructed in 1872, and at that point it was 4 miles long. During the early twentieth century the trail was in need of major maintenance and was rebuilt. In doing so, the trail became longer, but the name was left the same.

The trail began very near Sentinel Creek and the Swinging Bridge. At first the trail was deceptively easy, but that quickly changed. As we made our ascent up the south side of glacier-carved Yosemite Valley, great views of the north-central and west ends of the Valley came into view. This included sweeping vistas of El Capitan and Cathedral Rocks to the west as well as Cook’s Meadow, the Three Brothers, and Yosemite Falls to the north. A great realization I made once on the trail was that the 4 Mile Trail actually provided incredible views for most of its length. Before beginning the hike, I wrongly held the impression that much of the hike would be through forest, so I was pleasantly surprised.

The steep, and numerous, switchbacks up the trail required frequent rests, and we usually choose spots either in the shade or with great views. Although the day would warm into the 80s, hiking in the early morning was refreshing, and in fact most of us actually wore a light jacket for about the first half hour of hiking. The weather forecast looked great, but there was still a deal of haze looking westward. Before long the sound of Sentinel Creek cascading down the cliffside was no longer audible as we began a long stretch of trail around Sentinel Spire with very few switchbacks.

As we continued along the trail, the views down and across Yosemite Valley kept getting better. The massive face and protruding “nose” of El Capitan was very impressive. El Capitan can be reached from Tioga Road, but the most popular route begins by ascending from Yosemite Valley to the top of Yosemite Falls. El Capitan’s 3,000 vertical face attracts dozens of daring rock climbers each year. In the 1970s and 1980s, El Capitan was also a popular destination for BASE jumping. By 1980 the NPS began experimenting with the issuance of permits, but some jumpers were negligent of the environment and established park rules. Before long the NPS stopped issuing BASE jump permits after a short trial. However, in October 1999 Jan Davis was killed after she illegally BASE jumped from El Capitan as a form of protest. This terrible tragedy was captured on film, and hundreds of onlookers stood below in El Capitan Meadow to witness the protest jumps. Unfortunately, they instead were witness to a horrific event in national park history.

The next section of the 4 Mile Trail was characterized by constant switchbacks but some beautiful wildflowers and frequent wildlife, especially lizards and the vivid Stellar’s Jay. Before long we began to see North Dome and Royal Arches. Not long after that, Basket Dome came into view, and then came Mount Watkins, Tenaya Canyon, Clouds Rest, and eventually Half Dome. The head of Yosemite Valley certainly contains as many interesting features as the rest of its length.

North Dome is a 7,542-foot granite dome directly across Tenaya Canyon from Half Dome. As mentioned before, North Dome can be accessed from the Porcupine Creek Trail off Tioga Road. However, we had planned to hike the Snow Creek Trail from Mirror Lake up to North Dome and back down the Yosemite Falls Trail on another day. This idea never worked out, though, as we never made it to North Dome. A park ranger we talked to later at the Tuolumne Meadows Visitor Center recommended North Dome even from Tioga Road simply because of the “wow” factor of feeling as though you can reach out and touch the face of Half Dome. Apparently the view of Half Dome from North Dome is THE best view of Half Dome, a sight that must be seen to be believed.

Smaller neighbor Basket Dome is also a granite dome located across from Half Dome while 9,000-foot Mount Watkins resides just upstream along the rim of Tenaya Canyon. Directly below North Dome is the unique feature known as Royal Arches. Royal Arches consist of three huge semicircular alcoves on a granite cliff. This spot is also a popular choice for rock climbers because of its relative ease and outstanding views of the entire Yosemite Valley.

The entire area is full of history, including Native American legends. Native Americans who inhabited the area told of a domestic violence case which led to the creation of Half, Basket, and North Domes, Royal Arches, and Mirror Lake. “At one time, many bird and animal people lived in Yosemite Valley. One of them went to Mono Lake and wed Tesaiyac, an American Indian woman. He decided to return with her to Yosemite. They began their journey, he carrying deer skins, and she holding a baby cradle in her arms and carrying a basket on her back. When they reached the site of present-day Mirror Lake, they began to quarrel. She wanted to go back to Mono Lake, but he refused, saying that no oaks or other trees grew there. He would not listen to her when she said she would plant seeds. In despair, Tesaiyac began to cry and ran back toward Mono Lake. Her husband grew angry and ran after her. Tesaiyac threw the basket at him and it became Basket Dome. She continued running and threw the baby cradle at her husband. Today, we experience it as the Royal Arches. Because they had brought anger into Yosemite, the two were turned into stone. He became North Dome and she became Half Dome. Tesaiyac regretted the quarrel and began to cry, forming Mirror Lake. Today, you can still see the marks of those tears as they ran down her face. And if you look very carefully at Half Dome, you can see it is fashioned after the way the Mono tribe looked, hair bobbed and cut in bangs.”

We continued to climb yet higher and higher on our way up to Glacier Point, passing Union Point along the way. Approximately one mile before reaching Glacier Point there were a few engineers on the trail constructing a retaining wall. Just feet past where they worked we caught our final glance down Yosemite Valley with awesome views of Sentinel Spire, Cathedral Rocks, and El Capitan. After four hours of hiking, the entire gang made it to Glacier Point at 1:00. Before taking the short spur trail to Glacier Point itself we stopped for nearly an hour at the small store and purchased some cold sandwiches and refreshing ICEE’s. The sandwiches were pretty basic and probably a little over-priced, but it was better than eating crackers and granola bars like we had been all morning.

Then we made our way to the viewpoint for spectacular views of Yosemite Falls, Royal Arches and North, Basket Dome and Mount Watkins, Tenaya Canyon, Clouds Rest and Half Dome, and (a new view) the Grand Staircase of the Merced River and Little Yosemite Valley. The Grand Staircase consists of two massive, beautiful waterfalls: Nevada Fall and Vernal Fall. We would soon be making our descent down to those falls. Little Yosemite Valley is a smaller version of Yosemite Valley, located about four miles to the east. Upriver, the Merced River descends from popular Merced Lake. This area is one of the most popular backcountry destinations in the park.

After marveling at the 180+ degree view from Glacier Point, we began the beautiful Panorama Trail at 2:15 p.m. The first section of the Panorama Trail was incredibly scenic. The first two miles slowly descended from Glacier Point through open forest. The area was scorched by the late June 2004 Meadow Fire, which began somewhere near Mono Meadow. This massive fire eventually closed several of the park’s most popular trails, including the 4 Mile Trail, Panorama Trail, John Muir Trail beyond Nevada Fall, and any trails to Half Dome or Clouds Rest. The trail was very hot and dusty, but the views made up for the exhaustion. Half Dome’s face eventually disappeared and began to resemble more of an egg shape. Nevada and Vernal Falls became even more impressive, but eventually the disappeared.

After two miles of breathtaking scenery from Glacier Point on the Panorama Trail, we arrived at thundering Illilouette Falls. The waterfall is a towering 370 feet tall, but it is likely the most under-appreciated waterfall in Yosemite Valley because it is the only waterfall that can not be seen from a road. The Panorama Trail provides the best views of Illilouette Falls, but it is more commonly seen miles away on the trail between Happy Isles and Vernal Fall Bridge. The viewpoint for Illilouette Falls provides a nice top-to-bottom vantage point, but to get the best view you must get precariously close to the cliff’s edge. Needless to say, we got some pictures of the nearly all-encompassing view of the waterfall.

A few switchbacks past the overlook we reach Illilouette Creek. The creek begins several miles to the southwest, fed by tributaries in the Clark Range. Just above Illilouette Falls, the creek flows through a glacier-carved hanging valley. Hanging valleys are formed by tributary glaciers. The huge glacier that carved out Yosemite Valley left behind the sheer vertical cliffs that characterize the rim. The valley through which Illilouette Creek flows was carved by a smaller tributary glacier with a much smaller volume of ice than the glacier that carved Yosemite Valley. The smaller volume of ice means that the valley of Illilouette Creek was not carved as deeply, and thus it appears to be hanging above the rest of Yosemite Valley. Illilouette Falls plummets where the main glacier and tributary glacier met.

After crossing the footbridge over Illilouette Creek, the trail began to ascend and, at times, steeply. Compared to the stretch of the Panorama Trail between Glacier Point and Illilouette Falls, the section from Illilouette Falls and Nevada Fall provided much fewer vantage points, but Half Dome and Clouds Rest could still be seen. Eventually the trail leveled out and Yosemite Falls and Clouds Rest could no longer be seen. The trail began descending rather steeply less than a mile before the top of Nevada Fall. Soon there were great views of Half Dome, Mount Broderick, and Liberty Cap. Then came the incredible views of the Merced River splashing over a slab of granite at Nevada Fall. A little over 3 miles from Illilouette Falls (and 11 miles into the hike) we crossed over the Merced River directly above Nevada Fall.

From the other (north) side of the river a series of stairs take hikers to an incredible view of the brink of Nevada Fall. The view was awesome, but I’m sure many visitors have experienced vertigo as they stare at the incredible volume of water rushing over the cliff. I found this vantage point to be even more intense than the brinks of Upper and Lower Yellowstone Falls in Yellowstone National Park. A short walk from the brink brought us to the junction with the Mist Trail. Before descending the trail, we took advantage of the restrooms located at the trail junction.

The Mist Trail from the top of Nevada Fall to its base was very steep and could be dangerous with dozens of stairs amid a field of boulders. This section of the hike really took a toll on my legs, still not in top shape following ACL surgery in mid-March. However, the side view, and eventually, front view of 594-foot Nevada Fall was incredible. The mist from Nevada Fall was plentiful, but the trail was far enough away that we did not receive any of it.

Just over a mile past the top of Nevada Fall we reached the top of Vernal Fall. Like the top of Nevada Fall, a guardrail is placed at the top for hikers to peer over the edge for a beautiful view of the waterfall as it plummets 317 feet to a pool below. The brink also provides a wonderful view down the Merced River and of hikers climbing the Mist Trail to the top of Vernal Fall.

While numerous individuals have accidently swept over waterfalls in Yosemite Valley to their deaths, Vernal and Nevada Fall have been particularly notorious. Above Vernal Fall is a 20-degree rock slope with water know as the Silver Apron and a pool known as the Emerald Pool. Over the past decade, ten people have drowned or been swept over Vernal Fall after entering the Merced River above Vernal Fall. In fact, just four days before, Kiran Yellajyosula of India lost his balance and slipped into the swift Merced River below Vernal Fall. Hikers at the Vernal Fall bridge saw Kiran’s body in the river floating by. It was not until May 29, 2007 that a ranger spotted his body several hundred feet below the bridge between two boulders. In some places, getting into a creek usually means a nice refreshment, but unfortunately in Yosemite this has often turned to tragedy.

From the brink of Vernal Fall, we followed the railing to a small gate where the tedious series of 600 stairs begins. In some places the stairs were very wet, so we had to be very cautious descending. Although the mist from Nevada Fall did not reach us, the Mist Trail made up for its name as we hiked alongside Vernal Fall. We all put on light rain jackets to guard us from the chilly mist. Before long we had made it to the base of Vernal Fall, and the cliffs beyond were illuminated orange by the setting sun. About ½ mile from the top of Vernal, we met up with the John Muir Trail, and merely minutes later we arrived at Vernal Fall foot bridge. Here the view up stream at Vernal Fall was beautiful, and there were huge boulders strewn throughout the Merced River on both sides of the bridges.

Past the foot bridge we were treated to a nice view of Illilouette Falls a couple miles to our south. The trail descended alongside the Merced River through beautiful trees, and ¾ mile later we arrived at the Happy Isles Trailhead. Now at 7:50 p.m. we had trekked nearly 14 miles since starting the hike at the 4 Mile Trailhead at 9:00 a.m. Luckily we made it to the Happy Isles Shuttle Stop just minutes before a bus arrived to pick us up. We took the bus to Yosemite Village where my parents got off to purchase some food to make for dinner. Meanwhile, my brothers and I continued along the shuttle route to the Camp 4 Shuttle Stop.

From there we walked a little over ¼ mile through the meadows, over the Swinging Bridge, and just down the Southside Drive back to the car at the 4 Mile Trailhead. We then drove back to Yosemite Village to pick up our parents and then headed back to our condominium at Yosemite West. At the kitchen we cooked some sausage and kielbasa and made a couple pizzas, which was significantly superior to our previous night’s meal but still cheap. We certainly learned how to improvise when restaurants are closed for the evening before we are ready to eat. Obviously the long hike (to that date, the longest day hike any of us had completed) was tiring, so we tried to get to bed as early as possible after applying some much-needed Tiger Balm to our aching muscles. Our first hike in Yosemite may have taken a toll on us, but looking back on the day, the constant and varied sights along the way made this hike one of the most impressive we have ever taken.

Day 4—Thursday, May 24, 2007—Easy Yosemite Hiking

After hiking for so long the previous day, we were all rather tired and needed a little extra sleep. This day we decided to take it much easier. We began the day by taking the Glacier Point Road. I was very surprised to find that the Glacier Point Road was as nice as it was. I was expecting a lot of switchbacks and slow driving, but it was generally a very nice drive without it taking forever to get to a destination. We chose to begin our day with a short hike to one of the best views in the park: from Sentinel Dome.

Sentinel Dome can be seen from Yosemite Valley. In fact, Sentinel Dome is visible high above the Valley from Tunnel View as a rocky, round-topped peak on the right (south) rim. At an elevation of 8,122 feet, Sentinel Dome stands a mere 700 feet lower than more famous Half Dome. The incredible panoramic views from its summit make this short hike very attractive to thousands of visitors every year.

We began this short and easy hike to the top of Sentinel Dome at 10:50. From the beginning of the trailhead, hikers can see Sentinel Dome in the distance, and many will be shocked that there could possibly be an easy way up the rock. Indeed, viewed from the south the slopes look rather formidable, but the trail ascends the dome on its more level east side. The first part of the trail was characterized by small ups and downs as well as a bridge that crossed over a small creek. Before long the trail opened up to great views of Sentinel Dome. As we continued up the trail, we eventually reached the trail junction from which hikers can descend to Glacier Point to the east. It is also from this point that the trail-less ascent of Sentinel Dome begins.

Hikers must choose a route up Sentinel Dome they feel comfortable with as there is no designated trail to take. Although the final leg of the hike does seem to be a rather strenuous climb, within minutes the hiker is treated to some of the best views of the high country. These wonderful 360-degree views are also some of the most easily accessible, as the hike from the Sentinel Dome/Taft Point Trailhead to the top of Sentinel Dome is a mere 1.1 miles long and gains 500 feet. Clockwise from the west, the view included: Taft Point, Cathedral Rocks, the mouth of Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, the Three Brothers, Yosemite Falls, North Dome, Royal Arches, Basket Dome, Mount Watkins, Tenaya Canyon, the Cathedral Range, Clouds Rest, Half Dome, Little Yosemite Valley, Nevada Fall, the Clark Range, and Mount Starr King. This is one of the most beautiful complete panoramic views I have ever seen. Although you cannot see Vernal Fall from Sentinel Dome, I still regard the view from Sentinel Dome much superior to that from Glacier Point.

However, Sentinel Dome is perhaps better known for the Jeffrey pine tree that grew from its top. The tree, made famous by American landscape photographer Ansel Adams, was perhaps the most photographed tree in the world. A severe drought hit the area in 1977, and although rangers and visitors carried buckets of water atop the dome, the pine tree died. The tree stood standing, an iconic symbol of Yosemite National Park, until it eventually feel in August 2003 after a series of strong storms. The tree has always been a source of wonder for its improbable location atop a granite dome with no apparent nutrient source. Officials believe the tree began after a seed dropped by a bird began to grow roots through a crack in the stone. At the time of its collapse, the Jeffrey pine tree was an estimated 400 years old and stood at a height of 12 feet.

After spending awhile at the top enjoying the gorgeous view we hiked back to the trailhead. In total this hike was 2.2 miles. We finished at 12:25 p.m., so the hike took us 1 hour, 35 minutes to complete. We chose not to drive the short distance to Glacier Point since we had just done that the previous day, and because the view from Sentinel Dome was just as incredible. On our way down Glacier Point Road we saw the trailhead for McGurk Meadows which we said we may do in the evening to see the wildflowers. As it turned out, however, we never did make it to the meadows.

As we entered Yosemite Valley we had to stop at Tunnel View for the always amazing view. We drove to Yosemite Village and had lunch at the Village Grille at 1:00 p.m. The food was average fast food quality and a little overpriced, but it was also the first true meal at a restaurant we had since Carl’s Jr. in Lone Pine. After finishing lunch at the Village Grille we spent some time looking through the Village Store and buying souvenirs, t-shirts, and postcards to be sent out to family.

Once we had purchased all we needed we drove the short distance to the parking area for Lower Yosemite Fall. The trail to the base of Lower Yosemite Fall is a mere ½ mile walk along paved paths. Along the bed of Yosemite Creek we spotted a white-tailed deer munching away at some vegetation. Not until now could we really understand how little water there actually was in Yosemite Creek. There is a huge delta of rocks where Yosemite Creek would normally flow during this time of the year. However, the water of Yosemite Creek was only to be found in a narrow strand of the delta, definitely an abnormality in late May. Just below Lower Yosemite Fall, a bridge and viewpoint provide great areas from which to photograph the impressive falls. Just past the observation point for Lower Yosemite Falls, we stood along the remarkable path alongside towering trees that act as a nice frame of both Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls. There is even a bench at the beginning of the path where visitors can just sit and take in the beauty and awesome power of the waterfalls.

Upper and Yosemite Falls collectively make up one of the world’s most recognizable natural wonders. From the top of Upper Yosemite Falls to the base of Lower Yosemite Falls, Yosemite Creek drops an incredible 2,425 feet. This makes Yosemite Falls North America’s highest waterfall and the sixth highest in the world. Upper Yosemite Falls has been measured at 1,430 feet (approximately the height of the Sears Tower), Lower Yosemite Falls is 320 feet (approximately the length of a soccer field), and the cascades between the two waterfalls drops 675 feet. In years with relatively dry winters, Yosemite Falls typically dries up completely by late summer. Even Yosemite Falls beckons the call of rock climbers in the park when the waterfall dries out. Very few individuals take on this risk, however, because a thunderstorm in the high country could make the falls temporarily flow again and thus sweep the climbers away. Many hikers take the steep 3.5 mile trail to the top of Upper Yosemite Falls for incredible views and to gain a better perspective of exactly how tall these falls really are.

After taking the short loop walk to Lower Yosemite Falls we took the drive to Mirror Lake. The trail to Mirror Lake follows a paved road that is reserved only for park staff and handicapped visitors, so it is an easy stroll. It is obvious why Mirror Lake is such an attractive spot for photographers, especially in the early summer. The water that remains in the meadows after the winter’s snowmelt is great for photographing reflections of the surrounding trees, rocks, and domes. When Mirror Lake contains its peak snowmelt, it can be up to 20 feet deep. However, most of the lake is only a few feet deep. From the shores you are standing at the base of Half Dome at the mouth of Tenaya Canyon. Many visitors probably do not realize that the towering rock face located to the right (east) of them is indeed Yosemite’s Half Dome. From this vantage point it appears very different from what most visitors see in Yosemite Valley. Looking up Tenaya Canyon to the north, the most prominent peak is Mount Watkins, another point frequented by rock climbers.

Mirror Lake is a great example of how meadows in Yosemite Valley are made. In fact, all meadows in the valley were once a small lake similar to that of Mirror Lake. Mirror Lake was formed after a large rockslide in Tenaya Canyon dammed Tenaya Creek. Each spring Tenaya Creek brings several tons of silt and nutrients into Mirror Lake which empties into the lake basin and helps nourish plants such as willows. As the silt continues to pour into Mirror Lake, the basin will dry, and conifers will take place of the water-loving plants. Eventually Mirror Lake will become Mirror Meadow which will then become forest like the rest of its surroundings. The NPS at one time tried to slow the natural process of meadow to forest in order to preserve one of Yosemite’s most popular photogenic spots.

After we walked around the placid water and beautiful views we had to drive to Curry Village. We made plans to meet my cousin and his wife for a buffet at the Curry Pavilion around 6:30 p.m. They live in Oakland, and we had not seen each other since Christmas 2003. The buffet was not bad and decently priced. There was a long line of people waiting to get into the pavilion for the buffet when we arrived there because they only serve the dinner buffet during a short span of time. One downfall to the dinner was that once most of our group was ready to get their food, there were very few or even no plates, trays, and silverware. This was taken care of minutes later and was only a minor inconvenience. We had a nice dinner talking with our family. We offered our cousin and his wife to stay with us for the night at our condominium, but she had to be back home for work the next day.

So after dinner we went for a short walk around the meadow near Lower Pines Campground across the road from Curry Village. After a nice walk and some group photos, they had to leave, and we too made our way from Curry Village. We stopped at the Village Store again to pick up some groceries and then left the Valley. In total the day consisted of just over 3 miles of easy hiking, so it was a great way to recuperate from the much more strenuous day of hiking on Wednesday. We all got our showers and got to bed a little earlier so we could leave somewhat early on Friday, our last day in Yosemite National Park.

Day 5—Friday, May 25, 2007—Tuolumne Meadows, Mariposa Grove, and on to Tulare

After we had a light breakfast and packed all of our luggage into the car, we left Yosemite West Condominiums at 8:05 a.m. We started the day hoping to do a half day hike somewhere off Tioga Road. Our plan was to hike to Upper and Lower Cathedral Lakes and back along one of the most popular trails in the high country. We drove through Yosemite Valley in order to get to Tioga Road. When we passed through Crane Flat we were surprised not to see any bears, especially since it was still early in the morning. We again drove Tioga Road through the thick forest up to the inspirational view from Olmsted Point. And again, we had to stop to take some different shots of Clouds Rest and the backside of Half Dome, now in the early morning light instead of late afternoon. Tenaya Lake was just as blue and beautiful as it was on Tuesday. However, Tenaya Lake, like most lakes in Yosemite, is often still in the morning which provided great opportunities to photograph reflections of surrounding peaks.

We continued east passed several granite domes and then entered Tuolumne Meadows. I had been informed by a park ranger at the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center that the Tuolumne Meadows Visitor Center would be opening for the season this day, so I figured we could find out what the Cathedral Lakes Trail was like. Being the first time it was open for the season, there was still very little to see inside the visitor center. I inquired about the conditions of the trail to Cathedral Lakes, and a park ranger readily called a staff member who had recently done a trail status report to Cathedral Lakes. His findings were not very encouraging. The trail was relatively free of snow until the last mile before the lakes. Then there was almost constant, and deep, snow to be traversed. He also made mention that the hot temperatures that would arrive by the early afternoon would make the snow very soft and difficult to traverse. This report discouraged us from attempting the hike, which would have taken several hours to complete. I asked the ranger what other hikes in the area she would recommend. She recommended two: the ten mile roundtrip hike to North Dome and back from the Porcupine Creek Trailhead and the 3 mile roundtrip hike to Lembert Dome and back from the Dog Lake Trailhead. We knew we didn’t have time to attempt the North Dome hike, so we opted instead for Lembert Dome.

After the ranger helpfully provided an illustrated map of the Tuolumne Meadows area’s hiking trails and natural features, we drove to the Dog Lake Trailhead which is located off the road to the ranger station and Tenaya Lodge. By 10:25 a.m. we had started the hike, which began by climbing steeply for a very short distance to Tioga Road. At Tioga Road, we had to cross in order to continue, but we first waited until no cars were coming to take photos of Tioga Road and Cathedral Peak, which provided the backdrop to the scene. Cathedral Peak is 10,911 feet high and is the crowning peak in the Cathedral Range. Upon one of his first trips to Yosemite, John Muir wrote the following about the area around Cathedral Peak:

“The body of the Cathedral is nearly square, and the roof slopes are wonderfully regular and symmetrical, the ridge trending northeast and southwest. This direction has apparently been determined by structure joints in the granite. The gable on the northeast end is magnificent in size and simplicity, and at its base there is a big snow-bank protected by the shadow of the building. The front is adorned with many pinnacles and a tall spire of curious workmanship. Here too the joints in the rock are seen to have played an important part in determining their forms and size and general arrangement. The Cathedral is said to be about eleven thousand feet above the sea, but the height of the building itself above the level of the ridge it stands on is about fifteen hundred feet. A mile or so to the westward there is a handsome lake, and the glacier-polished granite about it is shining so brightly it is not easy in some places to trace Front of Cathedral Peak the line between the rock and water, both shining alike.”

Once we crossed Tioga Road, the trail continued to ascend, at points steeply, through forest without views. The trail became more moderate, and nearly a mile into the hike the trail to Lembert Dome veered off to the left (west). Not far from the dome itself there is an area of granite to the right of the trail. On the way up we spotted a marmot sunning himself on the rocks, and then he scurried away over the ridge. The trail eventually exited the forest, and we got our first view of Lembert Dome since Tuolumne Meadows. The length and difficulty to the top of Lembert Dome is actually deceptive upon first glance because it provides a false summit. After climbing for a couple minutes over the first granite slope you can see the true top of Lembert Dome as well as the top of Cathedral Peak to the southwest. To take a direct ascent of Lembert Dome from here would be very difficult. Instead, making a slow ascent around the summit from below is easier. I can see how people who are highly fearful of heights could have problems getting to the top of Lembert Dome. Circling around means walking on a slope that continues down the granite for several hundred yards down to the forest. I am not great with heights myself but had few problems on the way.

Once on top of Lembert Dome, the 360-degree view of Yosemite’s high country was astounding. The hike was only 1 ½ miles to the top with an 800-foot climb, but the views made the work well worthwhile. Going counterclockwise from the east, the view from Lembert Dome includes: Pothole Dome and Tuolumne Peak, Fairview Dome and Mount Hoffman, Cathedral Peak, Echo Peaks and Ridge, Unicorn Peak, Johnson Peak and Ridge, Mount Lyell, Lyell Glacier, Lyell Canyon, Kuna Crest, Mount Gibbs, Mount Dana, Gaylor Peak, Dingley Dome, and Ragged Peak. Also below all the peaks to the east, you can look down on the open marshland and creeks of Tuolumne Meadows and Tioga Road. It is certainly a beautiful view. The views from Sentinel Dome and Lembert Dome were two of the most beautiful we saw in the park.

There used to be another trail to the top of Lembert Dome. This trail ascended from the west at Tuolumne Meadows and climbed very steeply up its western slope. This trail proved dangerous, especially after intense erosion in 2003. A two-year project was completed in 2005 that was designed to completely close this trail. The trail had been considered a social trail, one that was not an official park trail but rather an accepted way visitors climbed Lembert Dome. The project restored the hillside and gullies that were created by the heavy traffic on this trail. Today the trail that ascends the eastern side of Lembert Dome is the accepted method.

We had made the 1.5 mile hike up to Lembert Dome by 11:15, and after spending some time taking in the views from the top, we descended the same way we had come. This time we did not see the marmot, and there were several more people beginning the climb to the top. We made it back to the trailhead at 12:05, so it took 1 hour, 40 minutes to hike the trail.

Once we got back in the car, we traveled back toward Tuolumne Meadows and stopped briefly at the visitor center for a quick break and to take some photos of Lembert Dome and the meadows. We again stopped a few miles down the road to take some pictures of Cathedral Peak from a different angle. We were then ready to head back for a final farewell of Yosemite Valley. At Crane Flat there was again a bear jam, but this time there were only two. After stopping to take some photos and watch the bears, we continued on to Yosemite Valley but did not stop. We continued along Wawona Road past the turnoff for Glacier Point Road and for Yosemite West and then entered new territory. The drive south to Wawona was nice and dropped quite a bit in elevation along the way. At Wawona we stopped just to look at the interesting buildings and check the lunch menu, but as we were tight on time, we just decided to eat some hiking food in the car. We continued south to the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias.

And what an impressive sight it was! As you enter the grove, there is a nice sign beside a giant sequoia welcoming visitors to the area. I don’t know that any of us was prepared for the size of the trees. We parked our car and just marveled at the sequoias in the parking lot. If thousand-foot waterfalls don’t impress you, I have no doubt the sequoias will. We stopped at the store first and found out that the tram through the grove was not free. We decided we would save our money and just walk the extensive trail system throughout the grove.

We began by walking to the Fallen Monarch. Scientists believe this tree fell centuries ago, but tannic acid in the sequoias’ wood arrests decay once the trees fall. The roots of the Fallen Monarch were incredible. Roots of sequoias do not grow deep but rather spread out near the surface of the ground in order to capture water. The roots can spread out to over 150 feet which, in turn, provides the tree with a steady base. When erosion and weathering have torn away at the ground around the roots, its support system weakens and the tree eventually falls.

We continued through the Lower Grove roughly paralleling the tram route. Most of the young sequoias in the grove are actually found right alongside the road because the road construction gives plentiful sunlight and provides more moisture, both conditions vital to the growth of sequoia trees. The next group of sequoias we came to was the Bachelor and Three Graces. This area is named so because there is a large sequoia standing alone with three slightly smaller sequoias grouped very close to one another several yards from the “bachelor.” Not long after the Bachelor and Three Graces we came to one of the most impressive sequoias in the world. The Grizzly Giant is an estimated 1,800 years old and is one of the largest trees in the Mariposa Grove. The amazing branch on the south side of Grizzly Giant is nearly seven feet in diameter, larger than the trunk of any non-sequoia tree in the entire Mariposa Grove. The Grizzly Giant was perhaps the first sequoia that gave us all the truly chilling factor that many of the largest do. The massiveness of this tree is almost unfathomable.

Just a few dozen yards past Grizzly Giant is the California Tunnel Tree. A tunnel about eight feet high was cut in 1895 in order for horse-drawn carriages to pass through the tree. It is really an awesome experience to actually walk through a tree. The trail then began to climb up a hill through a burned area above the tram route. The next named sequoia we came to was the Faithful Couple. These two sequoias share a common base but are separated at the top. Directly across the road is a nearly identical, but younger pair of trees that will likely become a future faithful couple several hundred years in the future.

Over a mile past the Grizzly Giant we arrived at the Clothespin Tree. This tree also has a tunnel through its base, but this one is natural. Countless fires have charred the base of the Clothespin Tree and left a natural tunnel several feet wide. The opening extends up the tree for several dozens of feet creating the appearance of a clothespin. From the Clothespin Tree we backtracked to the Faithful Couple and returned to the parking area via a much more direct route that at times descended steeply through the forest and without sequoias. However, a much smaller, more colorful resident could be found along the forest floor.

The snow plant is a fleshy, red that can grow twenty inches from the ground. It grows in montane coniferous forest, usually from 4,000 to 8,000 feet in elevation. They are most commonly found north of the San Jacinto Mountains and bloom from May to July. The plant is rare and also protected by law. The stalks of the snow plant are edible when cooked like asparagus, and they are also sometimes called devil’s asparagus. While snow plants were not lining the floor of the Mariposa Grove, we did see dozens of the plants spread throughout the grove, adding a little color to the forest.

We made it back to our car after walking a little less than three miles on trails through the Mariposa Grove. Unfortunately we had to get to Tulare for the evening, so once finished with the hike we exited the Mariposa Grove and soon thereafter left Yosemite National Park. Our route took us south on Highway 41 through Oakhurst down to the fertile groves of produce around Fresno. From Fresno we took 99 down to Tulare. The drive along this route was made more enjoyable by the continuous row of red, white, and pink rose bushes that grew in the median. We arrived at the Comfort Inn %26amp; Suites in Tulare and then decided where to have dinner. For the first time of the trip we had a real dinner at a restaurant: not fast-food, snacks, a buffet, nor a vending machine but a real sit-down-and-let-the-server-come-to-you kind of meal. We were told that the Black Bear Diner near the hotel was excellent. Apparently this is a chain restaurant started in Mt. Shasta, California that is now located in several western states, but we definitely don’t have any of these back in Tennessee. The menu says that they will give you a massive amount of food, so you will get your money’s worth. They definitely don’t lie about that! Everyone was given incredible food portions, and we all had plenty of food still left on the plate. While I can only speak for the pot roast diner, I can say that we all thoroughly enjoyed the meal. It was one of the best meals we would have on the trip, but I think knowing that we wasted that much food dissuaded us from eating there again the following night. After the wonderful dinner, we returned to our room and got some rest. Tomorrow would take us to two more new experiences in the national park system.

Trip Report: Installment #2

Great report, soccer! It%26#39;s very helpful for others to see the timing on your treks, especially that long first day starting at the 4 mile trail. It gives folks a good, realistic idea of what to expect. Can you believe that this trail used to be a ';commute'; road for the folks who worked at the former Glacier Point Lodge? I read a first hand account of someone whose parents worked at Glacier Point, and he had to hike the 4 mile every day to go to school in the valley!

You may want to cnsider saving this as a Go List for future visitors. You have lots of helpful info here.

And I agree that the best views inYosemite actually aren%26#39;t the hardest to get to- Sentinel Dome, Lembert Dome, and even the tunnel View.

Glad you made it to the Giant Sequoias. I would like to add that if visitors opt to pay for the bus tour, it includes the very impressive upper groves as well as a Museum and gift shop (where there used to be a small lodge back at the beginning of the 20th cent.) When I take visitors, we usually do the tram tour, then on the way back down, when we get off for the Tunnel Tree, we walk down the rest of the way.

Thanks macjack! Also, thanks so much for all the advice you provided while I was planning my trip. The advisors here in the Yosemite forum are wonderful!!!

I made sure to keep track of what time we were at different points along hikes we did in order to better help others figure out how long it will take to do sections of trails. I must say, however, that on the 4 Mile-Panorama-Mist Trail that was probably a little slower than average hiking, as we did stop for quite awhile at Glacier Point. I think if I had been hiking it by myself, I could have completed the trail in 6-7 hours. I guess in case anyone is thinking about doing this same loop, I would say for a very fit hiker, it would take about 6 or 7 hours, and average would probably be 9-10 hours total. We certainly took our time taking in the views and resting at periods along the way.

I cannot imagine taking that trek down and then up the 4 Mile Trail everyday to commute back and forth. It seemed like the trail was much longer than 4.8 miles up to Glacier Point. The views were absolutely breathtaking, but it certainly took its time on getting places!

Thanks for the tip about creating a Go List. Once I%26#39;ve finished the entire report and things have settled down more around here, I will start making more contributions to TA other than forum posts and the very few reviews and photos I have on the site.

I%26#39;m sure the tram through Mariposa Grove would have been excellent, but since we had the time and energy we decided just to walk on the paths. I am sorry we didn%26#39;t get up to the Upper Grove or museum, though. Maybe I am wrong in my assumption, but does the tram ever stop to allow visitors to take pictures of the trees? I know when we were walking alongside the tram route I never saw the trams stop for visitors to enjoy the trees other than via a passing glance. Maybe we just caught the trams at the wrong time.

The Mariposa Grove was probably the best choice we made while on the trip. Our original plans did not include stopping at all at the grove, and that would have been an absolute mistake not to do so. While Sequoia NP and other places in the Sierras have awesome collections of sequoias, I think the Mariposa Grove probably has the most unique formations of sequoias in the greatest concentration anywhere in California. The trees that were named along the way were just incredibly interesting to me.

Oh, I forgot to mention this in my trip report...May 25 was the Friday before Memorial Day weekend. As we were driving from Yosemite toward Fresno, the traffic heading TO Yosemite was absolutely ridiculous. I was so glad we got out of there before Memorial Day weekend and spent the weekend in less crowded Sequoia/Kings Canyon and driving to Utah. I don%26#39;t think I%26#39;ve ever seen that many cars lined up other than after a really bad accident or inconvenient road construction.

Great points of detail and time. Nice to read about places I haven%26#39;t yet been. Thanks for taking the time to pull this all together.

Very nice posts and glad you enjoyed your trip.

I just want to point out one detail as an FYI.

The bushes you saw in the median of Highway 99 from Fresno to Bakersfield are not roses. Actually they are Oleanders.

They were planted years ago as landscaping and to try to stop cars from crossing the center median. Higher speeds and larger cars have reduced the safety benefit. So the state is now either adding steel guard rails or removing the Oleanders and replacing them with concrete barriers in some areas.

Thanks for the correction FresnoFacts! I%26#39;ll have to let my mother know--she kept referring to them as roses, so I never really thought to look into whether she was correct or not. I don%26#39;t know a thing about flowers whatsoever, so thanks for letting me know.